18th c Georgian Crowned Heart Ring

A most gorgeous and intricate c.1750 early Georgian period crowned heart ring, featuring an oval-cut garnet paired with a trio of triangular rose cut diamonds, all collet-set in a shank and setting of solid 15k gold and silver (for the diamonds only). The openwork reticulated scrollwork shoulders are fittingly ornate and romantic, as the ring was crafted during the height of Rococo romanticism, before the onset of more reserved neoclassical styles in the early 1800s. Typical of fine rings made during this period, no effort was spared in the details and the craftsmanship; even the back of the ring is excessively beautiful, with sinuous lines and a ribbed rosette ring butt.

This ring was originally intended to be given as a love token or betrothal ring. The 18th century was a time when Rococo obsession with romantic love had gradually transformed the heart motif from its older protective talismanic meanings (such the even older Witch’s Heart) to become a symbol of marriage and courtship itself. When paired with a crown (the symbol of loyalty), the crowned heart comes to mean “steadfast or faithful love” and “ruler of my heart”. The crown also doubles visually as a halo of flame; for a flaming heart also represented passion, the marital bond, and religious devotion. For the Scots, a crowned heart was also referred to as a luckenbooth, a token given to a lover with the message “you have bewitched my heart”.

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