Description
Date: c. 1630-50, first half of the 17th century. (pearl drop and brooch/pendant fittings are later)
Materials: cream brown jasper, natural rubies, enamel, solid 20k gold body (unmarked; tests 20k via electronic gold tester; passes 22K acid test), solid 14k gold bail (marked 585)
Workmanship origin: probably German or Dutch (sourced from Amsterdam)
Weight: 8.1 grams
Length: 47.6 mm (including bail) 35 mm (excluding bail)
Width: 27 mm
Dimension of cameo: 20 x 15 mm oval
Dimension of rubies: four total— two 3 x 2 mm, one 2.25 x 2.5 mm, one 2.25 x 2.25 mm table cuts (approx. 0.26 ctw)
Condition: the pearl drop is a later replacement; back fittings are later/modern. There is enamel loss throughout, expected for 17th century jewels of this type. A small area of loss to the gold openwork frame (about 1 mm). Age-related abrasions and surface wear to the table cut rubies, including a small chip to the corner of one ruby. A few nibbles and chips to the edge of the cameo.