17th century Cameo Pendant

A rare 17th century pendant, featuring a creamy-brown jasper cameo of Apollo belvedere, in an openwork 22k gold setting with four table cut rubies and enameled floral ornaments. A damaged pendant of the same type is in the Hans-Ulrich Haedeke collection, published on p. 216, cat. 185 of “Schmuck Aus Drei Jahrtausenden”. Identified as early 17th century and south German, the Haedeke pendant shares several workmanship similarities with the present pendant: the use of table-cut gems in boxed square settings; a crimped collet bezel around the centerpiece; and enameled floral motifs interspaced between set gems. 17th century cameo pendants of the present type are simplified “descendants” of yet grander Renaissance pendants from the 16th century, all featuring a central cameo in a setting of boxed square-set table cut gems and enameled flowers. A close relative of the present pendant is in the British Museum (WB.187). A botanical and floral mania would grow during the late Renaissance and fully blossom during the late 17th century, with enameled flora one of the most iconic and representative 17th century jewelry motifs. For another 17th century jewel with enameled pansies, see Victoria & Albert Museum 2287-1855. British Museum WB.187 also features periwinkle forget-me-not blossoms.

The present pendant’s cameo can be attributed to the head of Apollo belvedere due to the distinctive bow-knot hair style and general contours of the head and features. This particular rendering of Apollo, the Greco-Roman god of music and poetry, is ancient Greek in origin and was popularized when a Hadrianic Roman copy was discovered during the 15th century Italian Renaissance. In 1511, this statue was installed for public display in the Belvedere palace of the Vatican; henceforth, it was known as “Apollo belvedere”. In the centuries following, the Vatican Apollo was hailed as the greatest ancient sculpture by ardent neoclassicists; drawings, prints, and replicas of various scales were made and sold, including, presumably, the present cameo.
(Please note: the pearl drop and back fittings are later.)
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