1830s 22k Georgian Cannetille Red Spinel Ring

An incredible and gorgeous c. 1820s Georgian cannetille ring, very intricately crafted from rich 22k gold hand-worked with granulated beading, wire filigree, and coiling in the Georgian cannetille fashion. An openwork gallery support five collet-set natural red spinels (approx. 1 – 1.16 carats total). The thick and sturdy shank is entirely decorated with three rows of tightly packed beading.

Made almost exclusively between 1820-30s, cannetille jewelry is representative of the skill and imagination of pre-industrial European jeweler-artisans. Nearly every delicate element seen on this ring required time-consuming hand finishing made economically possible only by the relative inexpensiveness of human labor during the Georgian era (a production model quite unfeasible today). Inspired by embroidery and ornate fabrics, cannetille in part became popular due to its historic flavor and the imaginative romance it evoked with its intricate spirals and threads. After the fall of Napoleon I and the restoration of monarchy in France, a wave of romantic historicism rolled across Europe, perhaps as a repudiation of the chaos of the late 18th century– in essence, a favoring of the reliable sentimental past over the dangerous uncertainty of revolution and industrialization.

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Date: 1820s, Georgian period

Size: USA 4.5, UK I, EU 48

Materials: solid 22k gold (acid tested), natural red spinels

Weight: 3 grams

Dimension of gemstone gallery / decorative ring face: 14 x 7 mm

Dimension of spinels: 4 x 3 mm, 3.5 x 3 mm, 3.8 x 2.5 mm, 3 x 3 mm, 3 x 3mm (about 1 – 1.16 carat total)

Width of shank: 2.2 – 4.2 mm

Thickness of shank: 1.5 – 1.6 mm

Condition: Overall good antique condition for its age, with the following observed flaws:
– the two small 3×3 spinels at the far ends appear to be later replacement
– the beading to the shank is a bit worn down towards the back
– It’s possible that there are minor losses to the delicate cannetille filigree work. However, this is difficult to tell for sure, as the handcrafted design doesn’t follow a consistent pattern (for example, hard to tell if a gap here or there is intensional, or due to loss). Please view all photos carefully — this ring & its condition is exactly as it appears in the photos.