1840s Victorian 15k Spinel Tourmaline Diamond Ring

An extremely gorgeous and intricate early Victorian ring, handcrafted in the 1840s from solid 15k gold and set with old cut diamond, rare natural pink spinels, and green tourmalines. The closed-back cramp-set gemstones are arranged in a floral cluster formation and embellished with beveled borders and decorative beading. Reticulated scrollwork shoulders connect to a bifurcated shank. Although unmarked, the workmanship is most certainly British; in the opening decades of the Victorian era, prior to the standardization of gold hallmarking in 1848, a vast majority of British-made jewelry were unmarked. The gold has been carefully tested to be solid 15k, and the stones all natural earth-mined.

The tracery-like shoulders and profusion of Medieval style decorative beading and wirework-like embellishments were all very popular during the early Victorian era, when the Gothic Revival Movement was in full swing. Victorians of the 1840s – on were immensely interested in the idealized historical past. Epic historic romances like Lorna Doone set the public imagination aflame, while Gothic horror became popular genre fiction. Historical revival styles made their way into material culture, via architectural styles, jewelry, and other decorative arts. Much of this ring was deliberately made in a historical style, which would have evoked a sense of romance and sentimentalism in the wearer the way an antique ring might a modern owner today.

Rings of this design and style were originally given as sentimental presents and romantic keepsakes– a sweetheart ring of sorts. The back of this ring has an empty compartment, where once upon a time, a woman would have stored the hair of her beloved behind a glass cover.