1880s Antique Victorian Sardonyx Signet Ring

A stylish and quite handsome c. 1880s Victorian ring, of a buttery rich solid 18k gold (marked & tested) and bezel set with a square sardonyx stone with a milky purplish-white surface “skin” and a thick carnelian red underlayer. The setting is etch-decorated with tiny swirls and foliate-like motifs; the workmanship is detailed and quite fine. The ring shoulders are further enhanced with heavily chased and raised appliqué folds that rest against the ring like fancy epaulettes.

Rings of this type were meant to be decorated with personalized initials or family coat of arms. Sardonyx, a variety of agate/chalcedony, naturally forms in bands and layers of alternating colors; when a jeweler carves through the top “skin” layer, the deeper color of the second layer becomes exposed, resulting in a two-color design most suitable for cameos, intaglios, and signets.