1884 Victorian Mourning Ring 18k Gold Enameled Pearl Diamond

A most unusual and stylish antique Victorian ring, datable by hallmarks to 1884, and crafted from solid 18k gold inlaid with elegant bands of black enamel and inset with natural pearls and two tiny old mine cut diamonds. The gold-white-and-black color scheme, in addition to the minimalist geometric shapes and lines, suggest classical Grecian influences. While neoclassicism and various archeological revival movements had encouraged a mania for all things Greco-Roman in the early decades of the 19th century, it’s much more rare to find elegant pieces such as this ring in the 1880s, when the predominant taste of the day favored more ornate gothic revival styles. There is an empty compartment to the ring face reverse, suggesting this is a mourning ring. The three lozenge shapes connected by twin loops invoke the trinity as well as the infinity symbol, the latter of which is further reinforced by the double loops of pearls at the outer edges. Weighing a solid 5.6 grams, this is a well-made and sturdy ring.

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Description

Date: 1884, Victorian era

Size: USA 8.5, UK Q, EU 58 (can be resized by your jeweler up or down 2 sizes)

Materials: natural pearls, diamonds, 18k yellow gold, enamel

Weight: 5.6 grams

Marks:
– [crown 18] for solid 18k gold
– [shield & three bushels of wheat] coat of arms for Chester assay office
– [letter A] year stamp for 1884
– [H & S] jeweler’s or sponsor’s mark

Dimension of gem-set ring face: 18.6 x 8.5 mm

Dimension of enameled shoulders: 9 x 5 mm

Diameter of pearls: 3 mm (largest) to 1.5 mm (smallest)

Diameter of diamonds: ~ 1.5 mm

Width of shank: 3.3 – 3.8 mm

Thickness of shank: 1.3 – 1.5 mm

Condition: generally excellent antique condition, with some age wear to the gold surface, and very minute losses to the black enamel (not noticeable).