18th c Portuguese Chrysoberyl Cluster Pendant

A late 18th c Portuguese chrysoberyl pendant, of a four-tiered cluster form set with 45 Brazilian chrysoberyl of varying cushion and trapezoidal scissor cuts (approx. 16.3 ctw). The concentric half-dome clustering, with cut-down collet bezeling in silver and a charming beaded trim in rose gold, is a well-documented Portuguese design, generally dated as circa last quarter of the 18th century. This specific cluster design in chrysoberyl appears to have been made in two forms: as rings or dress jewels. Curved examples measuring under 35 mm are generally ring heads, and flat-back examples measuring over 30 mm are dress jewels. The present pendant was formerly a dress jewel or stud, probably meant to be sewn to clothing; its original silver back shows blemish marks at the center, left when dress attachment fittings were removed. My jeweler has transformed this piece into a pendant with the addition of a bail-loop. For a jewel of this type (later converted to a brooch), see cat. 39, p. 54, “The S.J. Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal” by Diana Scarisbrick. Rings of this type are illustrated on cat. 123, p. 89 of “Five Centuries of Jewellery: National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon” by Leonore d’Orey.

Chrysoberyl is a rare gem with few natural deposit sources. Prior to the 18th century, it was sourced mainly from Ceylon (Sri Lanka), and too scarce to be fully understood. After 1729, deposits in Minas Gerais, Brazil were discovered, leading to popularized use and appreciation in Portugal and the rest of Europe. During the Georgian and Victorian eras, limited gemological knowledge often led to this gem being grouped with peridot and certain yellow-greenish sapphire/topaz under the umbrella term “chrysolite” (now defunct as a gemological classification). Today, gemologists classify chrysoberyl as an independent gem species (an aluminate of beryllium with the formula BeAl2O4) within the oxide mineral class (which also includes corundums sapphire and ruby). Chrysoberyls have a mohs hardness of 8.5, meaning it is the third hardest gem material available, after diamonds and corundums.
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