Heart of Hearts Jewels

Exquisite Antique Jewelry

18th century Spanish lazo pendant
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18th century diamond bow pendant

18th c Spanish Diamond Lazo Pendant

Date: c. 1750

Materials: rose cut diamonds, solid 18k yellow gold (tested with nitric-muriatic acid & electronic gold tester)

Workmanship origin: Spain

Weight: 16.2 grams

Height: 70.5 mm

Width: 33.9 mm

Depth: 6.2 mm

Dimension of diamonds: 73 total, three table cuts, the rest rose cuts— (measured in mm) one 3.4 x 2.8 table cut, one 2.5 x 1.6 table cut, one 4 x 3.2 rose cut, two 3.2 rose cut, three 3.6 x 3.4 rose cut, one 2 x 1.8, one 3.2 x 2.4, one 2.8 x 2.6, one 3.5 x 2.2, one 3.2 x 2.8, three 2.2 x 1.4, one 2 x 2, twelve 1.6 x 1.4, two 2.2 x 2, one 1.8 x 1.8, three 2.2 x 1.6, four 2 x 1.4, two 2.2 x 2, one 2.4 x 1.7 pear, one 2 x 2 triangular, three 1.8 x 1.6, one 1.2 x 1, three 2 x 1.2, three 1.8 x 1.2, two 2 x 2, one 3.6 x 1.8, three 2 x 1.8, one 3 x 2, two 2.6 x 1.5, one 2.4 x 1.25, one 2.4 x 1.4, one 2.2 x 1.6 table cut, one 2.8 x 1.5, one 2.2 x 1.75, three 1.8 x 1.5, one 1.75 x 1, one 2 x 1.1, one 1.8 x 1.4, one 2.7 x 1.4 pear

Approx. diamond weight: 1.13 ctw (estimate very rough due to irregular diamond cuts)

Condition: nearly all of the diamond foiling has oxidized to a gunpowder gray (however, the stones remain lively). One of the tiny side diamonds is significantly chipped (not noticeable due to its location and small size). Under loupe magnification, a few of the diamonds have tiny nibbles at the girdle; similarly, a few of the rubover collets have tiny nibbles at the edge. However, these issues are not noticeable to the naked eye and the stones remain securely set. There is age-related light surface wear and patina to the gold. Overall, this pendant has been preserved in its original condition and form without later modifications.
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Description


A c. 1750 Spanish rococo ‘lazo’ pendant, of solid 18k yellow gold and set with rose and table cut diamonds (73 total, approx. 1.13 ctw), crafted in three-part form with a bow-shaped top seamlessly connecting to a cruciform pendant via a ribbon-like middle. These pendants often survive with signs of later modification or repair (such as the addition of a brooch pin to back), but the present example has been preserved in original condition; the back still retains the original double-loop fitting for a choker ribbon.

This design type, with its dominating bow-tie shape, is one of the most enduring and popular pendant forms of the 18th century. As shown in the c. 1734 painting, ‘Feast Table at the Vienna court’ attrib. Johan Lundberg, the majority of the court ladies are depicted wearing such a pendant high around the neck with a black ribbon choker. The present pendant’s overall size, as well as the width of the back fittings (just wide enough for a slim ribbon) suggest it was originally worn exactly in the manner portrayed in the ‘Feast Table’ painting.

Sometimes described as a ‘sévigné’ in France and elsewhere in Europe, these bow pendants are known as ‘lazos’ in Spain. The present example leans on the earlier side of rococo, due to its more compact and dense body (late Rococo lazos being more florid but lightweight), use of table cuts alongside rose cuts, as well as the elegant and somewhat reserved contours. The center element is especially pleasing with its restrained and elongated lines. A similar mid-18th c Spanish pendant is illustrated in El Joyero de la Virgen del Pilar by Carolina Naya Franco (fig. 161, photo credit Carolina Naya, courtesy of the Zaragoza Metropolitan Council).

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