18th c Spanish Garnet 'Bow' Ring — Heart of Hearts Jewels

18th c Spanish Garnet ‘Bow’ Ring

A classic 18th century seven-stone ‘bow’ ring, the large ring face set with flat-cut garnets in rub-over collets, the setting foiled and close backed with a smooth convex posterior. The central collet is embellished with hand-incised and embossed scallops, suggesting either Spanish Catalan or Italian workmanship. The openwork foliate shoulders and raised bezeling give the ring height, depth, and a particularly gorgeous profile view; this design preference for dramatic, ‘tall’ mounts seems to be a regional feature of 18th century rings made in southern Europe (Spain, Portugal, Italy). The arrangement of the stones, with a large center flanked by two rows of threes, first became popular during the late 17th century, its form likely intended to resemble that of a decorative bow. During the late Baroque era, bows became an indispensable element of fashion, demanded by that era’s love for volume and texture in dress, and enabled by newly improved Dutch looms that could weave over twenty ribbons simultaneously, thus making ribbons—and by extension, ribboned bows—both affordable and ubiquitous. It was fashionable to pin jewels and medals against ribboned bows; and soon, bow-shaped jewelry such as the Sévigné brooch and the seven-stone bow ring became widespread. While regional or design variations may result in different bezel styles, gem selections, sizes, or cuts, the essential seven-stone arrangement remained unchanged for over a century, c. 1675 – 1800. A near-identical gold and garnet bow ring is in the jewelry collection of the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation.
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Description

Date: 1750-1800; second half of the 18th century

Ring size: USA 10, UK T, EU 62 (complimentary custom resize via laser available; please contact me for more information)

Materials: foil-backed garnets, solid 14-16k gold (unmarked, tested with electronic gold tester and nitric-muriatic acid)

Weight: 5.2 grams

Dimension of ‘bow’ ring face: 22.5 x 12.8 mm

Height of ring head: 8.4 mm

Dimension of garnets: 8.5 x 6 mm central, 3 x 4 mm sides

Width of shank: 3.5 mm

Thickness of shank: 0.5 mm

Condition: 18th century character and components have been preserved; stone are worn but all original; aside from a previous resizing, no modification or repairs. Due to age and garnet being a relatively soft stone, the stones have age-related surface wear (mostly light, shallow scratches); the side garnets have small nibbles and chips at the edges; the central garnet has a surface-reaching round bruise inclusion, visible at a far upper corner; under 40x loupe magnification, I can spot abrasions along the facet junctions. However, most of the age-wear is visible upon close scrutiny; the gem’s appearance to the naked eye is still quite attractive. The foiling has darkened and tarnished over time, given the garnets a dark coloring, which appears deep purple under natural lighting, and close to obsidian/black under dim indoor lighting. Some loses and nibbling to the gold rub-over setting of the side stones. A 6 mm section of gold has been added to the inside shank to size down the ring in the past; this will be removed without issue by my jeweler when the ring is resized. There is age-related wear and patina to the gold.

18th c Spanish Garnet ‘Bow’ Ring

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