1930s German Arts and Crafts Coral Ring

A gorgeous 1930s German Arts & Crafts Movement ring, of solid 14k yellow gold set with a giant 16 ct natural Mediterranean coral cabochon in a setting of vines and tendrils accented with small rose cut diamonds. Full of sylvan beauty and a touch of bohemian charm, this ring represents well the craftsman-driven folk art and anti-Industrial ethos of the Arts and Crafts design movement, which experienced a revitalization in the 1920s and 1930s in Germany under the influence of the Deutscher Werkbund (German Association of Craftsmen).

Precious coral has long been treasured as a trade commodity and fine gem in Europe, Egypt, India, China, and Tibet. Various mythical properties had been consigned to it: Roman philosopher Pliney the Elder wrote about its high demand in India, and of Gauls wearing it to battle; Romans themselves worn coral branches as a talisman against evil. This kind of Roman mysticism was later passed on to the Europeans, who believed coral jewelry protected children and promoted fertility in women. The material was also considered especially modest and refined during the 18th and 19th centuries; for instance, many Regency era portraits will feature ladies simply attired in white muslin, adorned simply with a few strands of beaded coral.

Most of the world’s gem-grade red coral were sourced from the specicies C. rubrum, which can be found 10 to 300 meters below sea level in the Mediterranean. However, centuries of popularity lead to over-harvesting, and as a result of depleting sources and environmental regulation, true untreated precious coral is rare to find today. Most modern jewelry use substitutes such as celluloid, bakelite, dyed sponge coral, or dyed white coral.