19th c Antique Japanese Shakudo Locket

A large and stunning c. 1875-90 Meiji era shakudō locket, intricately crafted with 18k colored gold and silver inlaid and relief overlaid to form the image of quails against a setting sun, tiger lilies, bird perched on chrysanthemums, and tendrils of morning glory; the central panels are worked against a traditional beaded texture called “nanako-ji” (fish egg pattern). Weighing a substantial 47.6 grams, the sturdy locket body is formed from shakudō, a uniquely Japanese alloy of copper and gold employed since the 12th century to make sword fittings (tsuba) and other small ornaments. Resembling a low-karat rose gold when untreated, shakudō takes on a near-black bronze hue due to intentional patination by craftsmen, to make the material resemble traditional black lacquer, and to fashion a suitably dramatic ground against which appliqué decorations can shine. Due to the labor-intensive process and the expense of materials, shakudō has historically been limited to the manufacture of small objects. The bird-and-flower motifs seen throughout the locket is Japanese in taste and tradition, sourced from Kachō-ga genre paintings and ukiyo-e prints. The quail, a popular subject in East Asian art, has long symbolized auspicious peace. Flowers are also deeply symbolic in Japanese culture: chrysanthemum for longevity, morning glory for affection, and tiger lily for prosperity. The present locket belongs to a rare group of shakudō objects exported to the west during the latter half of the 19th century. The Treaty of Kanagawa ended Japan’s isolationism in 1854, allowing for the exportation of Japanese goods into the west. In particular, shakudō metalcraft was deeply admired throughout Europe and America; major jewelers and firms such as Placido Zuloaga, Hunt & Roskell, and Tiffany’s either mounted shakudo panels or created shakudo style jewelry to satisfy consumer demand for “all things Japanese”. Following a 1876 decree banning the wearing of swords in Japan, Japanese craftsmen themselves turned to jewelry making between 1876-90, though complete jewelry articles made in Japan are rare. Most surviving examples today are fragments or panels remounted with Western settings.
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