Amatory Stuart Crystal Conversion Ring

A c. 1690-1700s amatory Stuart crystal slide (turned ring), featuring a wire-worked ‘FS’ monogram with a flaming heart in between and a laurel wreath in surround, atop pleated hair and silk, all set beneath a panel of rose-faceted quartz crystal, within a high-carat yellow gold setting. The colored silk backing gives the crystal a wistful seafoam aqua hue. Some time in the 20th c., this piece was tastefully converted to a large statement ring with the addition of a leaf-shouldered 15k gold shank. The original slide would have likely been made to commemorate a wedding. Flaming or crowned hearts were frequently paired with monograms in 17th c wedding badges and other memorabilia. The laurel wreath is another common amatory motif in the context of marital symbolism, commonly seen on marriage medals for its reference to Apollo’s amorous pursuit of the nymph Daphne (who turns into a laurel tree). Two Stuart crystals of similar design type (monogram above hair or silk) is illustrated on p. 5 of “Sentimental Jewellery: Antique Jewels of Love and Sorrow” by Ann Louise Luthi. A collection of slides from the same period, later mounted on a silver box, is in the British Museum (1978,1002.242). A similarly shaped flaming heart can be seen on a late 17th c slide in the Victoria & Albert Museum (M.125-1962).
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