c.1700-25 Spanish Gold & Emerald Demi-Parure

A c. 1700-25 Spanish gold and emerald demi-parure, consisting of a crowned cross pendant with a pair of pendeloque earrings, the gold testing 22k and of a warm rich tone, the table cut emeralds GIA certified natural Colombian (report 1216731398). The concentric arrangement of pyramidal studs and grooves around the cross pendant center is a rather unique decorative feature found on many late 17th – early 18th c Spanish jewels. A late 17th c cross with this trait is in the collection of the Convent of St Manços Évora (13B; 629J). More broadly, the present parure’s compact and heavier gold body, use of superior quality emeralds, rocaille foliate shapes, and engraved backs are all features consistent with Spanish jewels of the late Baroque era. The upper crown element is a continuation of 17th century obsession with crowned motifs. A three-stone crown with a tiny cross finial is also part of a mid-17th c Spanish cross pendant in the Art Institute Chicago (1992.541). Symbolizing loyalty, crowned jewelry represented steadfastness in love and faith, often paired with hearts in the context of marriage and resting above crosses in the context of devotion. The crowned cross also signalled respect for authority, and was a popular jewel for supporters of the establishment. Very few pre-1750 Spanish pendeloque earrings have survived to be illustrated in literature. However, an early 18th c Spanish colonial example from the Marian treasure is illustrated in the paper “The ancient jewel in the Canary Islands. Historical analysis through the Marian treasures (II)” (Jesus Perez Morera, Yearbook of Atlantic Studies). Although cruder in quality, the Marian treasure earrings share commonalities of form with the present pendeloques: compared to post-1750 Rococo examples, both pairs exhibit a simplicity of shape defined by two drops and a central bow-like element, without the clusters and excessive ornamentation seen on later examples.
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