c. 1780-90 French Amatory Ring

A c. 1780-1790 French amatory ring, featuring an openwork gold image of Cupid holding a flaming heart, enclosed by the motto, “BRÛLER ET SE TAIRE” (to burn in silence), against pale blue foil and beneath cover glass. The origin of the motto and image can be traced to Devises et emblemes, an anthropology of emblemata by the Huguenot engraver Daniel de la Feuille, several editions of which were published between 1691-1712. The present ring more closely aligns with the 1691 and 1697 editions, which show a seated cupid (as opposed to the standing version from the 1705 edition commissioned by Peter the Great). All editions contain mottos in multiple European languages, with the French “bruler et se taire” paired with the English “to burn and be silent” and the Latin “silens ardere”. The idea of silent ardor or secret unrequited love is reflected in a longer motto from the 1705 edition: “Je ne puis et me se taire” (I cannot burn and hold my peace).

Part picture book, part design manual, emblem books circulated throughout Europe between the 16th-18th centuries, playing an integral role in the formulation and consolidation of European arts and letters. Emblemata anthologies were generally presented as a collection of images (emblems) paired with corresponding mottos or lines of prose explaining the significance of a particular idea or allegory. By the 17th century, emblem books were published with mottos in multiple European languages, its imagery widely adopted for personal devices and decorative ornaments, and the dissemination of mottos reflecting shared attitudes toward religious or secular ideals.

In overall form, the present ring, with its beveled triangular shank tapering into a knife-edge shank, is typical of neoclassical rings made during the last two decades of the 18th century. The interior design with openworked sheet gold set against color foil is French workmanship; this technique, described as ‘silhouettentechnik’ by scholar Beatriz Chadour, can be seen in four c.1780-90 French rings from the Koch collection (cat. 995 – 998, Rings, The Alice and Louis Koch Collection by Anna Beatriz Chadour). Rings no. 995-996 feature pearl halos like the present example, and all are of lower karat gold (9-12k), consistent with period practice for larger neoclassical rings made during decades of war and unrest.
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