Exquisite Antique Jewelry
A pair of c. 1820-50 Sicilian 14k yellow gold pendant earrings, of an impressive 103 mm length (nearly reaching the shoulders when worn), and crafted from cut and incised thick sheet gold in the shape of laurel wreaths, Greek frets, and hanging vases. A very similar pair of earrings, attributed to Trapani, Sicily and made around 1829, is illustrated fig. 15 of “Gioielli in Italia” by Lia Lenti & Dora Liscia Bemporad. Compared against the Trapani earrings, it can be concluded that the present example’s original shepherd hook fittings were removed (possibly due to their tricky-to-maneuver forward catches) and replaced with the present lever-back closures. The essential trio of motifs—wreaths, frets, vases—are neoclassical in design origin, widely popular throughout Europe since the late 18th century. However, the workmanship traits are quintessentially South Italian. The celebrated firm Castellani acquired a large collection of Italian folk jewelry throughout the mid-19th century, and in 1867 staged an exhibition of “Italian Peasant Jewellery” at the Paris International Exhibition. Several of the pieces collected by Castellani are now in the Victoria & Albert Museum (see 397-1868, 210-1868, 314:1, 2-1868). Broadly dated c. 1820-67 / early 19th century, this group shares the same type of cut, openworked, and incised sheet gold workmanship as the present earrings. According to the V&A curators, “Italian women have always loved lavish display. Even for the poorest, a rich show of jewellery was all important. [..] Huge pendants and earrings like this were worn throughout Italy in the first half of the 19th century. The design is based on older aristocratic jewellery, but the execution is uniquely Italian.” The cut-out appearance and quality of these jewelry may have been inspired by or is related to Italian folk papercut designs of lace, embroidery, and other decorative arts. For 18th c & 19th c examples of such papercuts, see fig. 439-442, “Peasant art in Italy” (1913) by Charles Holme & S. J. A. Churchill.
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Date: c. 1830-50, early 19th century (back ear-clips later additions)
Materials: solid 14k yellow gold,
Weight: 18.8 grams (9.4 g per earring)
Workmanship origin: Sicilian
Length: 103 mm (4 in)
Width (at widest point): 30 mm
Condition: the lever-back closures to back are later replacements. Otherwise, the earrings are in good antique condition. Incised details are still crisp and well preserved. There is minor age-related surface wear and patina to the gold.