c. 1840 Engraved Gold Ring with Microivory

A c.1840 French chased and engraved ring, of a warm 18k yellow gold, the glass-covered rectangular head charmingly curved to mold against the finger, the interior containing a c. 1800 microivory landscape of a girl and dog set against a matte ground of powdered cobalt mineral. The setting originally contained an irreparably damaged portrait miniature, which has since then been replaced with the present microivory scene, transplanted from a c.1800 pendant with damaged setting. ‘Girl accompanied by pet dog’ was a popular subject in miniature-work jewels from the late 18th – early 19th c transition, belonging to the broader category of ‘fancy pictures’, which was a type of genre art that combined scenes of everyday life with elements of storytelling or parable. In these pictures, a loyal dog served as a symbol of an individual’s moral upbringing and faithfulness to love and family. The increasing inclusion of pets in portraiture and popular imagery also reflected a shift in how European society viewed animals— that the humane or affectionate treatment of animals was a sign of moral rectitude. Children or young women often appear with animals in popular media featuring ‘fancy pictures’ (which includes prints, decorative arts, and jewelry). Creatures like doves, dogs, and sheep also served as allegorical or religious symbols, and reinforced the innocence of the accompanied human subject.

The present microivory was produced at a time when increased consumer demand—already four decades in the making by c.1800—led to an increased output of microivory carvings. Individual master artisans continued to produce highly intricate compositions that may require years to complete, but simpler and less time-consuming carvings from workshops in regions like Dieppe, France were also made to satisfy the market for rings, snuff boxes, and other decorative objects with microivory elements. Two rings with microivory from c.1800 are in the State Historical Museum, Moscow (inv OK 15524 and ОК 15751). For c. 1840 rings featuring chased, chiselved, and densely engraved gold, consult Koch collection 1305, 1452, 1422, and 1463 (Rings: The Alice and Louis Koch Collection by Anna Beatriz Chadour).
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