c. 1900-20 48-inch Rhodolite Garnet Gold Sautoir

A c. 1900-20 long sautoir chain, set with 94 rhodolite garnets (approx. 110 ctw) within 14k yellow gold collet bezels, measuring a nice 48 inches (122 cm) in length. The chain can be worn double-looped for a layered look; when worn as a single strand in the Edwardian style, it reaches well into the stomach area. A mix between Almandine and Pyrope, rhodolite garnets have a lovely pomegranate hue. Around c. 1900, women’s fashion began favoring narrow, elongated bodylines marked by verticality and an emphasis on elegance over floridity. Longer-length chains were favored for their slimming effect when draped down the length of a garment; much like the Art Deco drop-waist design, the idea was to favor the vertical over the horizontal. Chains ranging from opera length (26-36 inches) to full sautoirs (up to 60 inches) remained popular for about three decades, from the Belle Époque and Edwardian periods to well into the Deco era. A similarly crafted sautoir, set instead with diamonds, is illustrated on p. 276 of “Understanding Jewellery” by David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti; both chains feature a smooth collet bezel secured at the girdle, with the gemstone crown and pavilion suspended in full view.
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