Early Rococo Emerald Cross

An early Rococo gold and emerald cross pendant, c.1725-50, of an elongated latin form, topped with a charming shell motif and embellished with a pierced rocaille scrollwork surround, the emeralds GIA certified natural Colombian (report 2225161536). While the pairing of gold with Colombian emeralds is most often associated with Spanish jewelry, the present pendant is most likely Germanic in origin. As scholar Jesús Pérez Morera (Universidad de La Laguna) noted in a paper, after the abandonment of the Chivor mine in 1563, the Muzo mines became for many years the only producing center; some of the best Colombian Muzo emeralds did not come to Spain, but, as objects of contraband, were sold to Dutch and English merchants and thenceforth to the rest of Europe. 18th century Spanish jewels favored regional conservatism in style and workmanship; most emeralds were table cut and set in smooth rub-over settings in the earlier 16th and 17th c style. The present emeralds are however early-brilliant cushions, with flat tables but rose-cut crowns, a style often associated with 18th c German gem-cutters. The bezeling, while tightly-fitted with rub-over collets, also feature four neat “tips” at the cardinal directions (a predecessor to the common Georgian ‘pinched’ or ‘cut-down’ collets). In terms of construction and workmanship, the present pendant bears resemblance to an early 18th c German-made cross in the Victoria & Albert Museum (no. 397-1864). Both pieces bear gemstones with rose-cut crowns, neatly ‘tipped’ collet settings, overall elongated shape, and smooth rivet-secured convex backs. Another similar cross pendant, also early 18th c and with emeralds, was once in the catalogue of Michael Backman, London. All three crosses discussed share common features such as ‘pie crust’ edgings and pierced scrollwork surrounds, traits left over from late 17th c design and indicative of a Baroque-Rococo transition taking place during the early 18th c.
Scroll Down for Description and Video