Early Victorian Turquoise & Diamond Knot Ring

An enchanting c. 1840s early Victorian 18k gold ‘love knot’ diamond & Persian turquoise betrothal ring, made with renaissance revival style beaded crimp settings and encircled with a lovers’ knot. The mazarin cut diamond is of approximately 0.25 – 0.3 carats.

While the Regency era of the 1800 – 10s favored simpler lines and smart contours, the coming of the English Romantic movement changed tastes towards the imaginative, fanciful, and sentimental. In particular Victorians of the 1840s – on were immensely interested in the idealized historical past. The Scottish historical epics of Sir Walter Scott and other historic romances like Lorna Doone set the Victorian imagination aflame, as historical revival styles made their way into the material culture, via architectural styles, jewelry, and other decorative arts.

Much of this ring was deliberately made in a historical style, which would have evoked a sense of romance and sentimentalism in the wearer the way an antique ring might a modern owner today. The beaded crimp setting was widely seen throughout the 1840s – 60s, and is a feature also commonly seen on Renaissance and Turdor era jewelry. The diamond was also intentionally “antiqued”: a stone with some grayish inclusions was chosen to suggest the look of much older “historic” diamonds, and the stone is cut in the mazarin style– a 17th century cut featuring simple crown facets, and is considered the first ever brilliant cut.

When this ring was given in the 1840s to a bride, it could have already been considered ‘something old and something blue’. Today it would make an even more special and unique engagement ring. The lovers’ knot encircling the gemstones is a wonderful touch and a literal symbol of eternal love that is impossible to untangle.

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Description

Date: 1840s, early Victorian period

Materials: solid 18k gold, persian turquoise, natural earth mined diamond of approximately 0.25 – 0.3 carats (difficult to estimate exactly, as the shape is irregular)

Ring size: USA 6.5 / UK M 1/2 / EU 52 3/4

Weight: 1.5 grams

Dimension of ring face: 13 x 6 mm

Width of shank: 1.4 – 1.6 mm

Thickness of shank: 0.7 mm

Condition: a tiny chip to one of the turquoise (visible under magnification). Otherwise in great antique condition, with everything from shank to gemstones original