Foiled Georgian Pansy Lace Pin

A c. 1800-20 late Georgian fichu pin in the form of a pansy sprig, the flower head set with foiled amethysts and pale citrines in cut-down collets, the 18k gold setting in the form of a textured stem with charming little off-shoot “buds”. Little flower head jewels were extremely popular throughout the Georgian era, first as hair jewels during the Rococo era, and later as lace/fichu pins during the Regency. Two pansy brooches of this type are in the British Museum (1978,1002.887, 1978,1002.899). A group of late Georgian flowerhead jewels are illustrated on p. 141 of Georgian Jewellery 1714-1830 by Ginny Redington Dawes with Olivia Collings. Pansy flowers were an especially popular motif in jewelry due to its sentimental significance: the word “pansy” is derived from the French word “pensée,” which means “thought”, and serves as a rebus for the sentiment “pense à moi” (think of me). Fichu pins—also known as lace pins—were practical everyday jewels for women of the 1770 – 1800s, during an era when increasingly low bodice lines necessitated the wearing of a neckerchief, known as a fichu, to cover the exposed chest. By 1790, the pristine elegance of a white cotton or muslin fichu became the popular look of the day, echoed in most portraits from this period. Fichus were either triangular or square in shape, and required a small pin or brooch to be secured at the center. Many such fichu pins have been destroyed in recent years as a result of conversion, or broken into components for rings or charms. However, these charming little jewels can be enjoyed in their original form: it can be worn around the neck on a velvet choker, secured on both ends with a watch chain, or over the hair on a ribbon hair band; they also look smart and cute on a jacket lapel or shirt collar.
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