Georgian Cannetile Amethyst Bracelet

A c. 1820-30 Georgian bracelet of solid 15k gold, consisting of four cushion-cut amethysts (approx. 20 ctw) in settings of cannetille filigree, with a band of interconnected and deeply chased floral panels. The saturation of details, along with sharp fineness of execution, give the bracelet an intensely gorgeous quality. Remarkably, no two chased panels are exactly identical, though the band itself is thematically cohesive in its commitment to floral motifs. First seen on late 17th century posy rings, gold jewelry chased and relief-worked with floral designs were sentimental in nature, intended to convey private affection and feeling rather than “public” cues such as status or power. Briefly out of fashion during the neoclassical period, heavily chased floral gold enjoyed a full resurgence during the early 19th century, so much so that jewelry and gold objects crafted between 1820-30 came to be defined by this feature. Cannetille, a type of fine filigree work with granulation, is yet another craftsmanship characteristic highly representative of the 1820-30 decade. The various coiled and scrolled gold wires and beads that form the amethyst settings would have been labor-intensive and time-consuming to create. A Georgian gemstone, cannetille, and chased bracelet with a similar clasp design is illustrated on page 115 of “Georgian Jewellery: 1714-1830” by Ginny Redington and Olivia Collings.
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