Krementz Art Nouveau 14k Bloomed Gold Floral Pendant

A very pretty c. 1910s American Art Nouveau Pendant Necklace by Krementz & co., constructed of solid 14k gold in languid, reticulated branches folding in a fluid circular shape around a central pink enameled flower inset with a natural pearl. The reverse bears a simple anchor mark associated with Krementz & co.’s early art nouveau era years. The pendant doubles as a brooch, and can be removed from chain.

Althought around 100 years old, this pendant necklace is wonderfully untarnished with age. The 14k gold has a nice rich glow due to the ‘bloomed’ finish, a coloring technique used by jewelers during the turn of the century to burning away alloys on the karat gold’s surface by dipping the material in a special acid mix (muriatic acid, potassium nitrate, salt and water). The result is a nearly pure gold surface with a gently matt sheen resembling a peach’s skin.

During the early 20th century, Newark NJ was the largest producer of karat gold jewelry in the world, with 144 companies manufacturing 50% of the world’s karat gold jewelry by 1925. Notable among these firms was Krementz & co., a jewelry company founded in 1866 that initially focused on making fine gentlemen’s buttons. The company grew quickly, and by the 1900s, were employing a large number of skilled jewelers specialized in designing by hand fashionable, exquisite karat gold, colored stone and enamel jewelry for women.

Description

Date: 1910s, Art Nouveau period

Materials: solid 14k gold (marked & tested), enamel, natural pearl

Weight: 6.7 grams

Dimension of pendant / brooch: 22 x 23 mm

Length of 14k chain: 20″

Condition: great antique condition, with only minor enamel loss the the tip of one flower petal