Late 17th c Sapphire & Diamond Cluster Ring

A late 17th century cluster ring, c. 1680-1700, the pale sky-blue sapphire GIA certified no heat natural Ceylon (report 5211792482), set within a halo of table cut diamonds, the shoulders carved with floral motifs and the back with black enamel inlay, crafted in 18k yellow gold. Although clusters overtook solitaires as the most popular form of gemstone rings by the late 17th century, most surviving examples are oval, lozenge, or bow shaped clusters. Large rectangular examples like the present ring are quite rare and unusual. This shape appears to be a design remnant from earlier decades: closely related forms can be seen on two diamond cluster rings made about 20-30 years prior (one excavated in North Yorkshire, registered under UK PAS YORYM-F7DDB6; another in private collection, see attached pictures). Rectangular cluster rings can also be seen in two mid-17th century portraits: “Portrait of Dorotea Fiorenza Saccenti” by Pietro Francesco Cittadini, c. 1660 (Rossi Poggi Marsili Palace); and “Portrait of a Lady” from the Circle of Carlo Ceresa, c. 1660 (Christie’s sale 5311 lot 219). Aside from the unusual head shape, the present ring is materially consistent with design and craftsmanship traits of the late 17th century. Rings made during this period tend to feature carved and enameled shoulders, enamel inlayed posteriors, and ‘pie crust’ trims and edges. For examples, consult Koch Collection cat. 779 and 782; cat. 31 & 71 from “A Sparkling Age: 17th-century Diamond Jewellery”; British Museum AF.1567, AF.1444, and AF.1574; V&A 526-1868 and 927-1871; National Museum of Sweden Indep37. The ring’s likely Italian origin can be attributable from the folded rivet construction visible to the ring head posterior, a common trait seen on Italian cluster rings. Natural untreated Ceylon sapphires often contain rutile silk inclusions; within the present ring’s sapphire, a small cluster of rutile silk has created faint star asterism to a corner of the stone.
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