Late 17th c Table Cut Diamond Cross

A late 17th century Baroque cross, of latin form in solid 22k yellow gold, set with 15 table cut diamonds (approx. 3 ctw). The fine rub-over collets, boxed bezeling, and crisp linearity along the arms remain largely unchanged from early 17th c setting practice. However, the classically late Baroque ‘pie crust’ edging to the four endpoints, as well as the finely engraved back, points to c.1680-1700 workmanship. While most late 17th c gold and diamond crosses made throughout Europe share common design and workmanship traits (such as the “rays” extending from the center and rub-over collets), the relatively elegant contours and widely spaced ‘pie crust’ edging suggest west European workmanship, though existent Habsburg influence in the present design could point to south Netherlandish origin. The table cut diamonds, quite watery in appearance, suggest an Indian source; after 1700, Brazilian diamonds would largely replace depleted Golconda mines. Good quality 17th c table cut diamonds very much encapsulate what “The Goldsmith’s Storehouse”—a 1604 English manuscript on the jeweler’s profession—describes to be the ideal diamond: “sharp and clean cut without any nastiness, and of a good water crystalline, and shining clear.”

Broadly speaking, 17th c women’s fashion tended to feature low, horizontal décolletés that barely covered the shoulders. Surviving portraits show “tiers” of jewelry being worn: larger jewels for the bodice, which were paired with smaller pendants for the exposed neck. Gold and diamond crosses of the present type were worn throughout the century along a black string tied high around the neck, as is shown in the portrait of Marie-Louise de Tassis, c. 1630, by Anthony van Dyck, and a c. 1690 Italian school portrait of a lady (Sotheby’s lot 118, sale n09161). For examples of other late 17th c gold and diamond crosses, consult p. 131 “Royal Jewels from Charlemagne to the Romanovs” by Diana Scarisbrick, p. 188 “A Sparkling Age: 17th Century Diamond Jewellery”, Art Institute Chicago 1992.545, and Bonhams lot 32 from the 12 Jun 2003 sale.
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