Late 18th c Bracelet Clasps by Jean Baptiste François Lebel

A pair of c.1778-79 French 18k colored gold sentimental bracelet clasps by Jean Baptiste François Lebel, one with a ‘BLMJ’ monogram cypher against grosgrain silk, the other with tree of life hairwork on ivory, fitted around c.1830 with gold straps, in a tooled leather fitted box also c. 1830. The two bracelets can be combined to form a choker. Very precise identification is possible due to detailed hallmarks preserved throughout. Between 1506 – 1784, Paris relied on a “poinçon de communauté” hallmarking system that assigned alphabets for each year; the monogram clasp is year punched for 1778, while the hairwork clasp is punched for 1779. Both clasps further carry Parisian “poinçon de charge” and “décharge” marks for 1775-1781, as well as a JBFL “poinçon de maître” for the Paris goldsmith Jean Baptiste François Lebel (active fl.1774-1806). The clasps’ green against yellow gold chased casework is similar to that of a clasp pair in the Victoria & Albert Museum, dated c.1775 (M.79&A-1969). The present piece’s interior monogram is further similar in style and execution to those of two late 18th c Parisian souvenir cases in the MET museum (7.190.1265a–c and 17.190.1257a–c).

Matched bracelets worn on both wrists were very popular throughout the 18th century, as evidenced by portraits like those of Elisabeth Farnese (1739 and 1743) and the 1787 portrait of Selina, Lady Skipwith by Joshua Reynolds. Large oval clasps were particularly favored for their sentimental possibilities: a glass-covered compartment often held cherished tokens like portrait miniatures, locks of hair, or monograms. 18th century bracelet straps were almost always made from impermanent or fragile materials like ribbon, woven hair, or beaded strands (e.g. pearls or coral). For this reason, most 18th century bracelets survive today in strapless clasp form. The present bracelets were fitted with handsome woven and linked gold straps around 1830, at a time when bold repousse worked gold chains and bracelets came in fashion (see Portrait of Madame Marie Marcotte, 1826). Both present straps bear Paris ram’s head marks for 1819-38. A gold bracelet with similar strap style, c. 1831-32, is in the Royal Collection Trust (RCIN 4795).
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