Late 18th c Portuguese Chrysoberyl Flowerhead Earrings

A darling pair of late 18th century Portuguese earrings, set with approx. 8.8 ctw of natural chrysoberyls in a flower cluster formation, all within foiled closed-back silver settings. The rather iconic original ear wires have been preserved, characterized by thick, curling hooks with prominent rounded loops at the tip. According to scholar Daniela Mascetti in her book “Earrings: From Antiquity to the Present”, rounded loops at the tip of ear wires was a common feature in 18th century earrings, which served a duo function of preventing the earrings from tipping forward when worn (thus preserving a “straight” hang), and, in the case of heavy pendeloque and girondoles, allowing the wearer to tie a ribbon to the loops and over the head to ease the weight on the ear lobes. While the present earrings are stud-like in appearance, they can be distinguished from button or hair jewel conversions in their single hoop construction. Other stud-like single hoop earrings can be found on p. 75, cat. 101 of “Five Centuries of Jewellery: National Museum of Ancient Art, Lisbon” by Leonor d’Orey. Three are also illustrated in “The S.J. Phillips Collection of Jewels of Portugal” by Diana Scarisbrick (cat. 40, 50, 51, p. 54 & 62). The present earring’s chrysoberyls are of a particularly pleasing lime-citrus color, of a “just-right” medium saturation and tone.
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