Victorian Double Heart Ring GIA Certified No-Heat Natural Sapphire & Ruby

A late Victorian engagement ring in the form of twin hearts, set with oval-cut sapphire and ruby within a glittering halo of old mine cut diamonds, all beneath a bow-shaped lover’s knot. Both gems have been tested and certified by GIA to be no-heat natural corundums; in particular, the sapphire has been characterized by the grader as “royal blue”, a highly sought-after color generally associated with the mines of Burma. The setting and shank is silver topped solid 15k yellow gold. According to jewelry historian Diana Scarisbrick, the twin-heart-and-bow design originated in France; the very first prototypes date to circa 1750 (see page 88 of her book, “Rings: Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty”). The inclusion of two hearts was intended to represent an alliance of affection. This idea soon expanded by the early 19th century to include any use of two different gems to symbolize “toi et moi” (you and I). The bow, long an emblem of flirtation and charm, represents a lover’s knot in this context, serving to “tie” together the bonded hearts. The rococo flourish of the twin-heart-and-bow was briefly out of fashion during the neoclassical period of the early 19th century, before returning to full popularity during the 1880s. By the late Victorian era, expanding middle class consumerism and a vibrant cult of sentimentality encouraged the popularity of engagement rings. The twin heart design was one of the most beloved during this period; this specific design can be found in the catalogues of several late 19th century jewelers, among them Mappin & Webb and Streeter & Co.

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Date: 1880 – 1900, late Victorian era

Ring size: USA 6.5, UK M, EU 53 (resizable— please contact me for more info)

Materials: GIA certified no heat natural ruby, GIA certified no heat natural sapphire (royal blue color), natural earth-mined old cut diamonds, silver (setting for diamonds only), solid 15k yellow gold (unmarked; tested with electronic gold tester & nitric-muriatic acid)

Weight: 3.65 grams

Dimension of ring face: 14 x 15 mm

Height of ring face: 4.5 mm

Dimension of ruby: 5.11 x 3.75 x 2.04 mm (approx. 0.3 ct)

GIA ruby report: natural ruby, no indication of heat treatment, transparent purplish red, oval modified brilliant cut crown with step cut pavilion, [report number 1186901532]

Dimension of sapphire: 5.08 x 3.75 x 3.02 mm (approx. 0.46 ct)

GIA sapphire report: natural sapphire, no indications of heating, modified brilliant pavilion with step cut pavilion, transparent deep blue, color appearance described in the trade as “Royal Blue”, [report number 2181901524]

Diameter of diamonds: 20 old mine cuts between 1.5 – 1.75mm; 9 rose cuts between 1 – 1.25 mm

Width of shank: 1.5 – 2 mm

Thickness of shank: 1.2 – 1.8 mm

Condition: one of the old mine cut diamonds in the halo has been replaced with a newer rose cut. The setting as been retipped in some areas. There is gentle surface wear to the facet junctions of the sapphire and ruby. The gold shows general age-related surface wear.